Kampong Lorong Buangkok: A Living Museum of Singapore’s Past

Image courtesy of Todayonline.com

In a city defined by its modern skyline, efficient public housing, and relentless drive for progress, Kampong Lorong Buangkok stands quietly as a powerful reminder of Singapore’s humble beginnings. Nestled amidst the bustling urban sprawl, this charming enclave is the last surviving kampong on mainland Singapore, a living museum where time seems to pause while skyscrapers and highways grow around it.

A Journey Back in Time

Stepping into Kampong Lorong Buangkok is like stepping into a history book that has miraculously come alive. Located off Yio Chu Kang Road, this quaint village sits on about 12,000 square meters of land. Wooden houses with zinc roofs line narrow lanes, chickens roam freely, and neighbours greet each other by name. It is an atmosphere that echoes Singapore’s kampong spirit, something that the city’s urban landscape has largely replaced with towering flats and gated communities.

Founded in 1956 by Sng Teow Koon, a traditional Chinese medicine seller, the kampong began when he purchased the swampy land and rented plots to families in need of affordable housing. Over the years, the kampong flourished, becoming home to a close-knit community of both Chinese and Malay families who built their lives on the shared values of trust, simplicity, and neighbourly help.

The Heartbeat of Kampong Life

Image courtesy of 8Days (Jasmine Teo)

Kampong Lorong Buangkok is more than just a collection of old houses; it is a living testament to the kampong spirit, known locally as gotong royong. Residents often help each other fix roofs, share homegrown vegetables, or gather for simple communal meals under shady trees. Children run barefoot down sandy paths, just as their parents and grandparents once did.

Today, around 28 households remain, each paying symbolic rents that have barely changed since the 1960s. In some cases, rent is paid not just in money but with baskets of fruits or bags of rice, a quaint practice that illustrates the deep bonds between the landowner’s family and the villagers. These arrangements have endured for decades, a rarity in a city where real estate is among the world’s most expensive.

Floods and Resilience

The kampong’s nickname, Kampong Selak Kain, meaning "hitch up your sarong" in Malay, recalls a time when the area was so flood-prone that villagers had to lift their sarongs to wade through knee-deep waters. Although drainage improvements have reduced flooding, the kampong still sees puddles after heavy rains, a reminder of the natural challenges early residents faced.

Despite its rustic conditions, the villagers’ resilience and sense of belonging have kept them rooted here. While the rest of Singapore has rapidly modernized with high-rise blocks and efficient infrastructure, the kampong remains intentionally untouched, preserving a slice of life that once defined the island.

The Role of Surau Al-Firdaus

At the heart of the community stands Surau Al-Firdaus, a small prayer house that has served as a spiritual and social gathering spot for the kampong’s Malay residents since 1967. Rebuilt in 1999, the surau continues to hold prayers and religious classes, strengthening the kampong’s multicultural ties. It is common to see residents, regardless of race or religion, coming together during festivals or when a neighbour is in need.

This unity, which bridges cultures and generations, is something many Singaporeans look upon with nostalgia. It serves as a reminder that the kampong spirit is not just about physical space but about human connection and mutual care.

Tucked Away Yet Exposed to Change

Over the decades, Kampong Lorong Buangkok has faced the threat of redevelopment multiple times. Urban planners have earmarked parts of the area for schools and roads, seeing its land as a resource for Singapore’s ever-growing needs. However, public sentiment has often leaned toward preserving this last kampong, seeing it as an irreplaceable window into the past.

While plans for redevelopment have been pushed back, no one knows how long this living museum will stand. For now, residents continue their daily routines, tending to gardens, feeding chickens, and exchanging greetings that echo through the village’s dusty paths.

A Hidden Gem for Visitors

Unlike polished tourist attractions, Kampong Lorong Buangkok does not have ticket counters or glossy brochures. Instead, it offers visitors something rarer: an authentic glimpse of Singapore’s past. Guided tours by heritage groups or responsible operators are the best way to explore the kampong respectfully. These tours often include meetings with long-time residents who share stories of how the kampong has changed over the years and how it has stayed the same.

Visitors are encouraged to walk quietly, greet residents warmly, and remember that this is not an open-air museum but people’s homes. The sights of traditional Malay wooden houses standing side by side with Chinese households, gardens overflowing with pandan leaves, papaya trees, and the occasional kampong cat lazing in the shade create a peaceful scene that contrasts sharply with the city’s hurried pace.

Lessons for a Modern City

In a city known for its cutting-edge architecture and technological advancements, Kampong Lorong Buangkok reminds us that progress need not come at the cost of community bonds. The kampong’s residents show that life can thrive without high fences, that neighbours can depend on each other, and that simple joys often create the strongest memories.

Urban planners and community leaders have often pointed to Lorong Buangkok as an example of how Singapore’s heritage can coexist with its future. Schools bring students here on learning journeys, hoping to instill in them an appreciation for the roots of a city built on trust and cooperation.

Preserving the Last Kampong

The debate over what to do with Kampong Lorong Buangkok continues. Some argue that conserving the kampong in its entirety is essential for future generations to understand where Singapore came from. Others believe redevelopment is inevitable, given the nation’s pressing land needs.

For now, the village’s future rests in a delicate balance. Meanwhile, its residents continue to sweep their front yards, exchange freshly harvested fruits with neighbours, and pass down kampong tales to curious visitors who stand in awe that such a place still exists in the heart of Singapore.

Visiting with Respect

If you plan to visit Kampong Lorong Buangkok, do so with care. Remember that this is not a staged attraction but a living, breathing community. Dress modestly, keep noise levels down, and always ask for permission before photographing people or their homes. Guided tours help ensure visits are conducted respectfully and give visitors a deeper understanding of the kampong’s history and significance.

Kampong Lorong Buangkok may be small in size, but it holds an outsized role in Singapore’s cultural memory. It stands as a testament to the city’s journey from humble villages to glittering skyscrapers, reminding us that even in a land hungry for space and development, there remains room for history, community, and heart.

In the end, Kampong Lorong Buangkok is more than just Singapore’s last kampong. It is a living museum, a timeless classroom, and a precious reminder that amidst the rush toward the future, it is the bonds between people that truly make a place home.

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